Page Last Updated 05 June 2005
<--The Big "Before"
Am I ever glad I don't have to start over. I have zigged when I should have zagged too many times on this first project!
First order of business: let's see if we can get the engine running. After replacing the fuel pump, putting on new plug wires (in the right order), removing the valve cover and changing the oil just for good measure, adding water and a battery (6 volts), it doesn't start!! My good friend and master AD man John Erb volunteers to sit in the cab whilst I tow the truck behind my Explorer hoping to tow start it. Guess what? It started right up! It runs smoothly and with no smoke or telltale problems.
Let's fix the rusted-out floor. All three panels were replaced with the reproduction panels currently available. I ran into only one glitch - the center screw-in panel is about 3/8 of an inch too wide and it won't screw down properly. The job was done very professionally by master welder Gene Swartzendruber, and there is no doubt about it being done right. We will have to cut the center panel to make it fit properly. This is only one small example of oddities encountered!
With the bed removed, it's obvious the need for rust removal. How about let's not do this and say we did!?
Doesn't look too bad after weeks of wire brushing! I had never done anything like this before, but this turned out to be totally unnecessary and a colossal waste of time. About 300 hours of it! Had I decided to do a frame-up in the first place, I would have known that sandblasting is the only way. Lesson learned!
More shots during rust removal, but entertaining to look at!
Before and after example of the rear cab mounts. After taking these pics, I tore the cab mounts apart again, beat blasted and replaced the rubber busings inside the mounts. I then re-primed and painted them black awaiting installation at some far later date!
I fear the wire brush manufacturer saw me coming!
Here is where one thing really leads to another. To get all that nasty dirt and rust, time to remove the fenders. Do you see where all this is going yet?
In my defense, it was really dirty. 50 years of crud just had to go!
Looking better. Maybe this wire brushing thing isn't so bad after all! Muahahahahaha!!!
It looks worse in reality than here on film. The dirt was unreal. I know, a pressure washer, right? Well, I don't have one! I DO have a scraper and some wire brushes though!
Okay... enuf of this cab getting in my way... there is dirt and rust under there! Since the floor was replaced, the bolts are new, so it's really only 6 bolts, a steering column and a hernia away from removal. Let's do it!
Welcome to my humble abode. Since my wife took a look at the bill for this project, I have a new home! Happy guys? Really tough, there was some substantial damage to the left outside cowl, cab corners rusted out, and a few other places that were questionable. Since I had decided at this point it would be a frame-up restoration, it was time to completely strip the cab, prepping it for dry beat blasting, welding and body finishing.
Stripping the cab down to a shell took me about one day. Next task... pulling the engine. No problem with my new engine hoist. A must-have for this sort of work. It moves heavy torque tube rear ends around quite nicely, too!
Here is the frame before sandblasting and then after. Hesston Concrete is where I sandblasted it and they returned the frame. I had no idea they would bring it via a high loader, but whatever works! This whole sandblasting thing was a serious education all in itself! The sandblaster used a huge, heavy firehose and a big diesel engine to power the compressor. After 4 55-gallon drums of sand and 4 hours of blasting, I felt the job was over. Not easy, but worth every bit of the headache! Every small nook and cranny is now free from rust. There is simply no better way!
This after papering the floor and prepping the garage for a makeshift painting booth. Time to remove the front and rear assemblies!
Here is the bare frame, sandblasted and waiting for paint. At this point I have learned about reactionary tactics and am planning each step carefully. After sandblasting, the frame has a rough texture, so I will apply 3 coats of Sherwin Williams 980 Etching Primer/Filler to the frame first. It's a MIL-Spec item, so it's green. This is my very first attempt to use a spray gun attached to an air compressor. It went very well and although I had lots of sanding to do, I got a very smooth and incredibly fine result. This is in no small part thanks to the guys on the OleTrucks list for providing insight on how to paint with a spray gun.
This is the frame after 3 coats of Epoxy primer (above the etchant primer applied earlier.) The Epoxy Primer is again Sherwin Williams 4601. A safety note: Be very careful propping up the frame in this manner. It fell on me and I am lucky to be alive since it crushed me under it! No broken bones, but it conked me on the head pretty good, so be careful!
This is after 3 coats of Urethane Top Coat. I AM getting the hang of that paint sprayer! Use a respirator and plenty of ventilation, especially on the Urethane. The Urethane is Sherwin Williams 1738 Ultra.
My bead blast cabinet is essential in this project. Many hours spent here and worth every minute. Small to medium sized parts are cleaned to factory original. This process is essential to getting the primer to stick well and allows you to inspect each part for wear.
Here are some results before and after painting. The manifolds got new studs and will be painted soon. The front end parts as all the rest are etchant primed and then painted with acrylic enamel.
To break up the monotony, I decided to refurbish the Fram Oil Filter canister. I will show the pics of the done deal later, but with the decals and the clear coat, WOW!!! Meanwhile, the rear end is back from the mechanic and ready for a good cleaning and then primer/paint.
Here is the completed frame up against the wall out of the way so I can assemble the front end and prepare to paint the rear end. Things are looking up! Each leaf was primed and painted separately and a piece of teflon strip inserted between each one.
Here are a few shots of the completed rear end assembly. I am awaiting new U-Bolts and as soon as they are in, I will ready the front and rear ends for the frame. Should be up on wheels soon!
