Page Last Updated 05 June 2005
1950 3100 Picture Gallery Step-By-Step
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The Big Before

<--The Big "Before"

Am I ever glad I don't have to start over. I have zigged when I should have zagged too many times on this first project!

Hood Missing

First order of business: let's see if we can get the engine running. After replacing the fuel pump, putting on new plug wires (in the right order), removing the valve cover and changing the oil just for good measure, adding water and a battery (6 volts), it doesn't start!! My good friend and master AD man John Erb volunteers to sit in the cab whilst I tow the truck behind my Explorer hoping to tow start it. Guess what? It started right up! It runs smoothly and with no smoke or telltale problems.

Rusted-Out Floor

Let's fix the rusted-out floor. All three panels were replaced with the reproduction panels currently available. I ran into only one glitch - the center screw-in panel is about 3/8 of an inch too wide and it won't screw down properly. The job was done very professionally by master welder Gene Swartzendruber, and there is no doubt about it being done right. We will have to cut the center panel to make it fit properly. This is only one small example of oddities encountered!

Bed Removed

With the bed removed, it's obvious the need for rust removal. How about let's not do this and say we did!?

Wire-Brushed Rear Frame

Doesn't look too bad after weeks of wire brushing! I had never done anything like this before, but this turned out to be totally unnecessary and a colossal waste of time. About 300 hours of it! Had I decided to do a frame-up in the first place, I would have known that sandblasting is the only way. Lesson learned!

Front of Truck With Wheels RemovedRear of Truck With Wheels Removed

More shots during rust removal, but entertaining to look at!

Rusty Old Rear Cab MountCleaned and Refurbisned Rear Cab Mount

Before and after example of the rear cab mounts. After taking these pics, I tore the cab mounts apart again, beat blasted and replaced the rubber busings inside the mounts. I then re-primed and painted them black awaiting installation at some far later date!

Rusty Underside of Engine

I fear the wire brush manufacturer saw me coming!

Front Fenders RemovedSide Picture of Fenders Removed

Here is where one thing really leads to another. To get all that nasty dirt and rust, time to remove the fenders. Do you see where all this is going yet?

Close-Up of Rusty Cab

In my defense, it was really dirty. 50 years of crud just had to go!

Front Frame After Wire BrushingClose-Up of Front Frame After Wire Brushing

Looking better. Maybe this wire brushing thing isn't so bad after all! Muahahahahaha!!!

REALLY DIRTY Engine

It looks worse in reality than here on film. The dirt was unreal. I know, a pressure washer, right? Well, I don't have one! I DO have a scraper and some wire brushes though!

Cab Removed From Frame

Okay... enuf of this cab getting in my way... there is dirt and rust under there! Since the floor was replaced, the bolts are new, so it's really only 6 bolts, a steering column and a hernia away from removal. Let's do it!

Cab = My New Home!!!

Welcome to my humble abode. Since my wife took a look at the bill for this project, I have a new home! Happy guys? Really tough, there was some substantial damage to the left outside cowl, cab corners rusted out, and a few other places that were questionable. Since I had decided at this point it would be a frame-up restoration, it was time to completely strip the cab, prepping it for dry beat blasting, welding and body finishing.

Stripping the CabEngine Pulled From Frame

Stripping the cab down to a shell took me about one day. Next task... pulling the engine. No problem with my new engine hoist. A must-have for this sort of work. It moves heavy torque tube rear ends around quite nicely, too!

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